Common Myths About Movement Mechanics & Calibers I Stopped Believing
As an independent horologist and avid watch collector, I’ve spent countless hours immersed in the world of mechanical movements and calibers. Throughout my journey, I’ve encountered a myriad of information—some accurate, some misleading, and some downright absurd. Today, I want to share the common myths I once believed regarding movement mechanics and calibers, myths that I’ve since debunked through experience and research.The Myth of "More Jewels Equals Better Quality"
I can’t tell you how many conversations I’ve had where folks cite the number of jewels in a movement as a primary indicator of its quality. Sure, jewels—typically synthetic rubies—are used to reduce friction and wear in watch movements, but more isn’t always better. Many entry-level quartz models have zero jewels, yet they perform reliably. On the other hand, some high-end mechanical watches may have movements with fewer jewels—think around 17—while featuring exceptional craftsmanship and precision. In my workshop, I’ve worked on several movements with varying jewel counts that perform beautifully or poorly, regardless of the number. The essence lies more in the design and engineering of the movement itself.💡 Julian Blake's Rule of Thumb: Focus on the craftsmanship and design of the movement instead of just the jewel count.
Caliber Complexity Doesn’t Equal Value
When I began collecting watches, I was enchanted by the complexity of certain calibers. I thought that the more intricate the movement, the more valuable the watch must be. This notion led me to invest in watches with complicated mechanisms, only to realize later that complexity doesn’t always translate to higher value. For instance, I had a beautiful chronograph with a mesmerizing movement featuring countless components. However, it had a common caliber that didn’t possess the exclusivity or craftsmanship of others. Conversely, I found a simple manual-winding movement that was beautifully finished and had limited production, making it far more desirable and valuable. To truly understand value, one must consider the overall watch-making process, historical significance, and brand reputation.The "Swiss Made" Label Isn’t a Guaranteed Indicator
I remember the thrill of acquiring my first "Swiss Made" watch, believing it was synonymous with quality. While many Swiss-made watches are indeed of high quality, the label itself can sometimes be misleading. The Swiss watch industry has specific regulations about what qualifies a watch to be labeled "Swiss Made." For instance, a watch can be assembled in Switzerland with parts sourced from abroad and still carry the prestigious label. This realization hit me hard when I discovered some of my favorite affordable brands were making excellent movements, often outperforming their Swiss counterparts in terms of durability and accuracy. So, while a Swiss movement can provide assurance of quality, it’s essential to dig deeper into the brand's reputation and the movement's design.Automatic Movements Aren’t Always More Convenient
I used to think that automatic movements were superior simply because they wind themselves as long as I wore them. However, I quickly learned that they require regular wearing or a watch winder to keep running—unlike quartz movements that are hassle-free and battery-operated. In my experience, I’ve found that I often gravitate toward my quartz watches for their practicality, especially when I’m rotating through my collection. I’ve had instances where my automatic watches have stopped running because they sat unworn for too long. This forced me to reevaluate my beliefs about the convenience factor. If you’re looking for reliability without the fuss, quartz movements may be your best bet.High Frequency Doesn’t Always Mean Better Performance
The first time I heard about high-frequency movements, I was captivated by the idea that a higher beats per hour (BPH) would lead to greater accuracy. While it’s true that a higher BPH can yield more precise timekeeping, my experience has shown that the difference in accuracy isn’t always significant in the real world. I’ve owned watches that tick at 28,800 BPH alongside those that operate at 21,600 BPH, and I’ve found that both can maintain excellent timekeeping under typical conditions. Moreover, a high-frequency movement may wear out faster due to increased friction, requiring more frequent servicing. In short, while high frequency can be beneficial, it’s not the sole determinant of a watch's performance.A Look at the Movement Comparison
Here’s a structured comparison of some popular movements I’ve worked with, highlighting key features:| Movement Type | Jewels | BPH | Common Brands | Price Range (USD) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ETA 2824-2 | 25 | 28,800 | Longines, TAG Heuer | $500 - $1,500 |
| Seiko Caliber 4R35 | 23 | 21,600 | Seiko, Prospex | $300 - $800 |
| Sellita SW200 | 26 | 28,800 | Oris, Hamilton | $600 - $1,200 |
| ETA 7750 | 25 | 28,800 | Breitling, IWC | $1,500 - $5,000 |
Frequently Asked Questions
What should I look for in a movement when buying a watch?
Look for craftsmanship, brand reputation, and historical significance rather than just specifications like jewel count or BPH.
Are quartz watches less desirable than mechanical ones?
Not at all! Quartz watches offer unparalleled accuracy and convenience, making them highly desirable for many collectors.
Is it necessary to regularly service an automatic watch?
Yes, automatic watches should be serviced every 3 to 5 years to ensure optimal performance and longevity.